Handbag dupes without the fakes

Know your leather (and non-leather)

Full-grain leather is the top layer of the hide and ages best. Top-grain is sanded for a more uniform look and is still good quality. "Genuine leather" is a lower grade despite the name, and bonded leather is made from leather scraps and tends to peel.

Vegan options vary widely. Polyurethane (PU) is the most common; better versions are thick and soft, while thin coatings crack at the folds over time. Newer plant-based materials are worth a look, but check reviews for how they wear.

Hardware and stitching

Hardware is where cheap bags give themselves away. Heavier zips, clasps and feet that feel solid, and don't flake or tarnish, signal a better bag. Look for even, tight stitching with no loose threads, especially where straps attach, because that's where bags fail first.

Edges matter too. Painted or turned edges on leather bags should be smooth and even, not cracked or fraying.

Structure and practicality

Structured bags keep their shape thanks to internal stiffening; a dupe that looks crisp in photos but slumps in person usually lacks it. Check the interior: a lining, pockets and a closure make a bag much more usable day to day. Compare dimensions and strap drop with the bag you love; small changes in proportion change the whole look.

Red flags

Walk away from any listing that:

• Shows another brand's logo, monogram or name on the bag, lining or dust bag.
• Describes itself as "inspired" while using the brand's trademarks in photos.
• Has no seller name, address or return policy.
• Offers "authentic designer" quality at an impossibly low price.